Vitamin C turns up in both the fruit bowl and the skincare aisle. Thinking about a vitamin C serum? Here is what it can realistically do, how to use it with sunscreen and vitamin A, and where food fits in.
What can a vitamin C serum do for your skin?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant, and healthy skin naturally holds high levels of it. Pullar review, 2017
In two small studies, people who applied vitamin C to their skin for three to six months had fine lines that looked smoother than with a placebo. It is also widely used to help skin look brighter and more even. Al-Niaimi review, 2017
The honest limits: the studies are small and used different formulas, and many products contain little vitamin C or let it break down. If your blood levels are already high, applying more may not raise skin levels, though the research is limited. DermNet — Topical vitamin C; Pullar review, 2017
Is a vitamin C serum a sunscreen?
No. Sunscreens contain ingredients that absorb or reflect UV, and in Australia the TGA regulates those that claim sun protection. TGA — Sunscreens Unless a product is tested and labelled with an SPF, it is not a sunscreen.
Cancer Council recommends SPF 50 or 50+ broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen as part of your morning routine whenever the UV index is forecast to reach 3, along with clothing, a hat, shade and sunglasses. Cancer Council — Preventing skin cancer
Serum goes on first, then moisturiser, then sunscreen; our guide to the order to apply skincare explains each step.
How do you use a vitamin C serum with vitamin A?
Vitamin A (retinoid) creams are often applied at night, and they can make skin more sensitive to the sun. DermNet — Topical retinoids A simple pattern is vitamin C in the morning, under sunscreen, and vitamin A in the evening.
- Start one new product at a time and try it on a small patch first. Irritation often builds up when several products are layered together. DermNet — Sensitive skin
- Very strong vitamin C serums have not been shown to work better and may irritate more. Al-Niaimi review, 2017
- Prescription vitamin A creams such as tretinoin are not used in pregnancy. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning a pregnancy, check with your doctor, pharmacist or MotherSafe before starting a vitamin A serum. MotherSafe — Skin care in pregnancy
Why do vitamin C serums differ?
L-ascorbic acid is the most studied form, but it is unstable and does not pass easily into skin; an acidic formula helps with both. Al-Niaimi review, 2017 More stable forms, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, are absorbed less well and have to be converted to vitamin C in the skin. Pullar review, 2017
Vitamin C also breaks down in air, so keep the lid closed and store the bottle as the label says. DermNet — Topical vitamin C
Where does vitamin C from food fit in?
Your body cannot make vitamin C, so it has to come from food. Eat for Health — Vitamin C It helps keep your skin, bones and blood vessels healthy. Healthdirect — Vitamin C
The Australian recommended dietary intake for adults is 45 mg a day, with more during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is a nutrition reference, not a supplement dose. Eat for Health — Vitamin C
Red capsicum, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kiwifruit, strawberries and oranges are good sources, and fresh produce keeps the most. If you are concerned about your intake, talk to your GP or an Accredited Practising Dietitian before taking a supplement. Healthdirect — Vitamin C
When to see your GP or dermatologist
See your GP or a dermatologist if you notice:
- a new spot, or a mole or freckle that changes in size, shape or colour, bleeds, itches or looks different from the others Cancer Council — Signs of skin cancer
- blotchy brown patches on both cheeks, the forehead or upper lip, which can be melasma (some procedures can make it worse) DermNet — Melasma
- a red, itchy rash after using a product, one that is not getting better, or a rash with a fever Healthdirect — Contact dermatitis
- easy bruising or bleeding gums, which can be signs of low vitamin C Healthdirect — Vitamin C
Our pigmentation guide explains which skin changes need a medical check before cosmetic care.
What can we talk about at Melbourne Wellness?
At an advanced skin analysis appointment, we can look at your skin with you, go through your products and talk about whether a vitamin C serum suits you. If anything needs a medical opinion, we will suggest you see your GP or dermatologist first. The dietary review in an initial naturopathy consultation can look at vitamin C in your meals.
Questions you might bring (our seasonal routine review has more):
- What would I like a serum to change about how my skin looks?
- Which products do I use now, and do any contain vitamin A or acids?
- After two or three months, how will I judge whether it is worth continuing?
If you would like to try a vitamin C serum, our post on Osmosis Catalyst and Catalyst MD explains how the two differ. Catalyst MD belongs to the Osmosis MD range, so we recommend a skin consultation before you start it. Osmosis Replenish, an antioxidant serum, is another option to ask us about.
